Meet Mary Howard, The Most Influential Set Designer In Fashion
With over 30 years of experience in set and production design, Mary Howard has defined the field through her visionary work in print and commercial photography. Trained as a painter and performance artist, she brings a deep understanding of art history and visual culture to her craft, creating richly layered sets infused with historical and contemporary references. From working on Richard Avedon’s sets in the ’90s to collaborating with legendary photographers like Annie Leibovitz and Steven Meisel, her career has shaped some of the most iconic images in fashion and portraiture. As the founder of Mary Howard Studio, she continues to lead and inspire the next generation of creatives, setting the industry standard in production design.
CAN YOU WALK US THROUGH YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS AS AN ART DIRECTOR AND SET DESIGNER? DO YOU GET THE FINAL WORD?
We help create and enhance the environment in which the model or talent is placed. It can be a set in a studio or on location. Of course, I wish I had the final word! But our work is always a collaboration, and in most cases, the photographer has the final say. I enjoy presenting a refined and finished concept with the sets and art direction, then making alterations and adjustments as directed by the photographer.
WHAT IS THE LATEST ART DIRECTION PROJECT YOU HAVE WORKED ON?
We take on three to five jobs a week during the busiest times of the year. On Friday, we worked on a cosmetics ad along with an elaborate Christmas/Holiday set for a department store—where we managed to create a snowfall in June! Yesterday, we shot a magazine editorial, and even though today is Sunday, a large set build is happening at Milk Studios for a fall fashion shoot.
YOU SEEM TO HAVE BEEN A PART OF EVERY MAJOR FASHION CAMPAIGN—WHICH PROJECT HAS BEEN THE MOST FUN TO BE INVOLVED IN?
Each project is a unique experience. The jobs that last more than a day tend to be more satisfying because there’s more time to fully immerse in the process and collaborate with the photographer and styling teams. I especially enjoy ads that tell a story because they allow me to explore a cinematic approach, making the experience more engaging and fulfilling.
IS EVERY DAY IN NEW YORK A SEARCH FOR THE ULTIMATE SET PROP, AND DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE PLACE TO SOURCE THESE GEMS?
I am constantly looking for new ideas—whether in a dumpster or a high-end store. You never know what treasures you’ll find in a city like New York. I also take inspiration from my travels; for instance, I recently brought back some grey moving blankets from Africa that I now use in grey-themed sets. There’s a tiny shop near me that I love. The owner has very little furniture due to limited space, but he has such an impeccable eye that I love everything he brings in. If I find something versatile enough to use for multiple projects, I buy it without hesitation. The best props are the most timeless and universal.
WHAT IS THE MOST EXCITING ASPECT OF CREATING NEW ENVIRONMENTS FOR AN ADVERTISEMENT OR PUBLICATION?
The process of building a world through set elements. Even though we are creating still images, I think narratively—imagining the stories within the image. Seeing new ideas come to life during the process and finally witnessing the completed set is the most exciting part.
WHAT ROLE DID YOU PLAY IN THE DOLCE & GABBANA BLACK & WHITE CAMPAIGN STARRING MADONNA?
There is a lot of preparation involved in these projects. Steven Klein is incredible at gathering inspiration—whether from photographs, movie stills, or other visual references. He is very thorough, and I love how he often introduces me to obscure films I haven’t seen before. The research phase is the foundation of the process.
For the past two Dolce & Gabbana campaigns, scouting the perfect New York location that could resemble Sicily was a crucial part of my role. The scouting process took a week and was exhaustive. We also had to source specifically Sicilian props and food—something Domenico and Stefano take very seriously. Additionally, I worked closely with Steven to plan what Madonna would be doing in each shot. However, Madonna likes to stay active on set, so we needed to keep up with her energy and have several scenarios ready to go.
FAVORITE FILM OF ALL TIME?
As a Southern woman, I feel obligated to say Gone with the Wind and To Kill a Mockingbird. Films are a huge inspiration for me—I try to watch several a week when possible. I don’t just love beautifully designed films; I also enjoy fun, silly movies like The Hangover. I would have loved to design the trashed Vegas hotel room set in that! I also love sci-fi and horror films like I Am Legend.
FAVORITE GALLERY SPACE IN NEW YORK?
I’m nostalgic for the small galleries in the East Village during the ’80s. It was an incredible time, and because the galleries were so close together, you could visit several in one night. I also love the period-decorated rooms at The Met.
GREATEST SAYING YOU LIVE BY?
I’m guilty of using cliché phrases on set, like "Chop chop, people!", "Go for it!", and "Stop spinning your wheels!" My husband is a former Marine, so when I’m having a tough day on set, I call him. He has a few ridiculous Marine sayings that somehow help—like "Are you a woman or a wouse?" (a twist on "Are you a man or a mouse?") or "When the going gets weird, the weird get going."
BEST PLACE TO SHOOT AN AD IN NEW YORK?
New York always surprises me with new locations. Even after all these years, I’m still discovering fresh places to shoot. Red Hook, Brooklyn—where I live—is gaining attention for its unusual industrial waterfront landscape. It’s located on the Buttermilk Channel, so we get great natural light and ocean air. There aren’t many tall buildings, just strange, dilapidated small structures that create a unique setting. This week, we’re doing an Italian Vogue shoot on the waterfront—just four blocks from my house!
BIGGEST VICE?
Impatience. I want to see sets completed as soon as possible, and I get frustrated when there are delays. Designing sets is like being in labor—I just want to have the baby already!
Mary Howard’s 7 Styling Insights
Design Through Storytelling: Great design tells a story, creating a deeper connection with the viewer.
Layer with Meaning: Mix historical and contemporary elements for timeless, emotionally rich spaces.
See the World as a Prop House: Find inspiration everywhere; versatile props often come from unexpected places.
Create Atmosphere, Not Just Aesthetic: Focus on how a space feels, crafting mood through lighting, texture, and scale.
Collaborate, Don't Control: Embrace collaboration for innovative, exciting results.
Embrace Obsession: Attention to detail fuels creativity and innovation.
Be Inspired by Cinema: Films offer.